"Biker jacket" and "cafe racer" get used interchangeably online, but they are two distinct cuts with different histories, different hardware and a different feel on the body. If you are choosing between them, this guide explains exactly what separates a cafe racer from a classic biker (or "moto" or "double rider") jacket and which one suits you.
The quick version
- A cafe racer has a short band collar with a snap, a straight centre zip, slim sleeves and minimal hardware.
- A biker jacket (double rider, moto, Perfecto style) has a wide notched lapel, an asymmetric zip across the chest, a belted waist, epaulettes and zipped cuffs and pockets.
Where each style comes from
The biker jacket as we know it dates to 1928, when the Perfecto was designed for Harley-Davidson riders in New York. The asymmetric zip let riders lean forward without the zip pressing into their stomach, and the overlapping front kept wind out. Marlon Brando wore one in The Wild One in 1953, and the style has been the uniform of rock bands and rebels ever since.
The cafe racer jacket came out of 1960s Britain. Riders on stripped-down motorcycles raced between cafes, and they wanted a jacket with nothing to flap or catch at speed: a snug band collar, a straight zip, no belt, no lapels. The look was quieter and more aerodynamic, and it has aged into the most versatile leather jacket silhouette there is.
Feature by feature
| Feature | Cafe racer | Biker (double rider) |
|---|---|---|
| Collar | Short band collar with snap tab | Wide notched lapel, often with snaps |
| Front zip | Straight, centre | Asymmetric, runs diagonally |
| Waist | Straight hem, sometimes side tabs | Belt with buckle |
| Shoulders | Plain | Epaulettes |
| Pockets | Two to four, usually zipped or welted | Zipped chest and hip pockets, coin pocket |
| Cuffs | Zipped or plain | Zipped |
| Hardware | Minimal | Heavy: zips, buckles, snaps |
| Silhouette | Slim, clean | Structured, shorter, more aggressive |
| Overall look | Understated, works with tailoring | Bold, works with denim and boots |
How they wear
A cafe racer disappears into an outfit. Over a white tee and dark jeans it reads casual; over an oxford shirt it reads smart. The band collar sits neatly under a scarf and does not fight with a shirt collar. Because there is no belt or lapel, it is the easier jacket to wear to work or dinner.
A biker jacket makes a statement. The lapels, belt and hardware add visual weight, which is why it pairs best with simple pieces: a plain tee, slim or straight jeans, boots. Worn open, the lapels frame the chest; zipped and belted, it is the warmest of the two because the overlapping front seals out wind.
Which is better for riding?
Neither style is protective gear unless it is built as such. What matters is the leather weight and whether there are armour pockets. Of the two, a biker jacket's overlapping front and belt give slightly better wind protection, while a cafe racer's band collar is better at keeping draughts off the neck at speed. If you ride, choose cowhide or goatskin, and read our guide to fashion jackets versus riding jackets before you buy. Our armoured biker jacket and custom jackets can be made with CE armour pockets.
Which is easier to fit?
The cafe racer. It is a straight, simple cut, so it suits most body types and the fit points are forgiving. The biker jacket's belt lets you cinch a slim waist under broad shoulders, which is a plus for athletic builds, but the short body and lapels can overwhelm smaller frames. Our leather jacket fit guide covers the measurements.
Variations you will see
Racer with stripes: contrast sleeve or chest stripes borrowed from 1970s race leathers. Belted cafe racer: a hybrid with a band collar and a waist belt. Quilted biker: diamond quilting on the shoulders or chest. Shearling biker: a biker cut with a shearling collar and lining for winter. Trucker: not a biker jacket at all, but often grouped with them; it has a shirt collar and a button front.
Our recommendation
If this is your first leather jacket, buy a cafe racer in black or dark brown sheepskin. You will wear it more than anything else you own. If you already have a cafe racer, or you want the jacket to be the centre of the outfit, buy a biker in cowhide and let it take the knocks.
Browse cafe racer leather jackets and biker leather jackets, all real leather, all under $200, with free exchanges if the first choice is not right.
Frequently asked questions
Is a cafe racer a biker jacket?
It is one type of motorcycle-derived jacket, but in menswear "biker jacket" usually means the asymmetric-zip double rider. A cafe racer is its own style.
What is a moto jacket?
"Moto" is a fashion term for a biker-style jacket, usually a slimmer, lighter version of the double rider. It is not a technical riding jacket.
Which is warmer?
The biker jacket when zipped and belted, because of the overlapping front. With a shearling or quilted lining, either style is a winter jacket.